Rick,
My preference would be to purchase a finished product. (I'll add my
own hardware)
Are you planning to offer rudders that you have glassed with your
vacuum bags?
Are you planning to offer rudders that are complete glass/gelcoat
(similar to a Laser rudder)?
What would be the price point differences between a "ready to go"
wood rudder and a total glass rudder?
Thanks,
Alan _/)
:: Now that I have a series of rudders in various stages of
:: work, I have learned a few lessons and have some
:: feedback from Ethan.
::
:: 1.) The Sitka Spruce I have (not the fancy aircraft
:: grade Marty bought) has a lot of built in stress, and is
:: 'iffy' for getting a straight blade, and keeping it that
:: way.
::
:: 2.) The top of the rudder blanks I've been dressing
:: nominally to 3/4"- I can make it 1" because I start with
:: 1", so this is an option unless we standardize it.
:: Doesn't really matter to me. I will be making the tops
:: 1" thick for the Dotan 25 kick up option if that works
:: out.
::
:: 3.) Subsequent rudders will have a slightly thicker
:: trailing edge in general for better durability.
::
:: 4.) I suggest epoxy coating the wood immediately after
:: machining and sanding so each one has a better chance of
:: remaining straight, not supplying raw wood blanks. I can
:: do that for $150.00.
::
:: 5.) For a hardwood end piece, cap, and trailing edge, I
:: will have to charge slightly more- but I have a cabinet
:: maker who can help me out there and laminate some for me
:: to carve.
