Windmill Class Association

Sounds like you are making great progress on finding the best choice.

I will take one of the blanks I can go up to $200 for a blank.

I will buy one if it turns out to be the cedar that I have to glass that is fine too.

:: I currently have 3 workable rudders- one is the all
:: cedar first article and has some epoxy/microballon
:: filler where the roughing pass was too deep and didn't
:: clean up. It can go for the original quote, is nice and
:: accurate but of course needs glass and wouldn't be
:: pretty on one side if bright finished. I'll probably
:: glass it and use it as a practice rudder on my DuraBilt.
::
:: The other 2 have mahogany leading edges with the
:: remainder of cedar. They do have very thin and weak
:: trailing edges but I epoxied any splits or tears in them
:: today. I plan to vacuum bag glass/epoxy over one of them
:: tomorrow but I can supply one bare for the original
:: quoted price. Vacuum bagging would provide the lightest
:: possible layup and add thickness to the trailing edge
:: but of course add cost. It wouldn't be too hard to cut
:: the trailing edges off and add a new hard piece,
:: dressing it with a hand plane to the trailing edge angle
:: but adds to the cost.
::
:: I have laminated 2 more blanks today for carving
:: tomorrow I hope- only one is all mahogany (still
:: laminated) and the other is a test with some really
:: clean 'clear white pine' with a mahogany leading edge.
:: The Mahogany would be easy to bright finish without
:: glass but I hope to get $150 for a mahogany unfinished
:: blank. It is more difficult to prepare the tougher
:: mahogany and the material of course is more expensive
:: too.
::
:: A hardwood trailing edge I will have to think about -
:: because of the taper it is not a simple lamination
:: anymore unless it spans 2 of the strips I am using now.
::
:: In the coming week I will source other woods such as
:: real Spruce, and perhaps more mahogany. The local boat
:: builders use a pine known as 'Pinus Virginium', but call
:: it 'spruce pine'.
::
:: Trying hard to keep the costs down and availability up!
::
:: Rick
::
:: :: What ever you have is fine. I would perfer something I
:: :: could bright finish if posable. I have started my own
:: :: out of ceder and have found the same thing it will have
:: :: to be glassed. Mahogany leading and trailing edge would
:: :: be good or you might look at a hard wood trailing edge.
:: ::
:: :: let me know how it is comming the photos look neat.
:: ::
:: ::
:: ::
:: ::
:: :: :: Roy,
:: :: ::
:: :: :: What material? Spruce? Mahogany?
:: :: ::
:: :: :: I cut several more rudder blanks today, and posted some
:: :: :: photos in the Builders Corner of the Photos page here. I
:: :: :: also tried to post a message about it, but apparently it
:: :: :: didn't 'take'....
:: :: ::
:: :: :: The rudders I made today are western red cedar with a
:: :: :: mahogany leading edge. The cedar is very weak, and needs
:: :: :: the glass wrap real bad. The trailing edge fo the first
:: :: :: all cedar one was thicker and is OK- the ones today had
:: :: :: tighter tolerancing and the trailing edges are 'ratty'.
:: :: :: The glass will fix it. I'll laminate 2 all mahogany ones
:: :: :: tomorrow for machining Jan 1.
:: :: ::
:: :: :: I hope this message posts OK....
:: :: ::
:: :: :: Rick Loheed
:: ::
:: :: :: http://mysite.verizon.net/vzew00ta/loheed
:: :: ::
:: :: ::
:: :: :: :: I do now place my order for 1 rudder blank
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: Windmillers-
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I have written the G-Code programs for the new rudder,
:: :: :: :: :: allowing 0.010" for a thin glass finish over the
:: :: :: :: :: recomended NACA 0012 section, and purchased western red
:: :: :: :: :: cedar and mahogany. Ethan and others would prefer Spruce
:: :: :: :: :: and I have now a source for that, too. This afternoon I
:: :: :: :: :: am ripping and gluing up my laminations for my rudder,
:: :: :: :: :: which will be the first Windmill rudder on the CNC
:: :: :: :: :: router. I plan to use mahogany for the leading and
:: :: :: :: :: trailing edges. After that, it will get a 'peel-ply' and
:: :: :: :: :: absorbent mat vacuum bagged layer of 8 oz glass/epoxy-
:: :: :: :: :: after which I will finish it out with Bristol Finish.
:: :: :: :: :: The vacuum bagging of course ensuring the maximum
:: :: :: :: :: glass/resin ratio.
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: I think I can cut unfinished wood blanks for $125.00-
:: :: :: :: :: that is what I have told Ethan. After the first article,
:: :: :: :: :: I will know better how much time it takes.
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: See http://mysite.verizon.net/vzew00ta/loheed
:: :: :: :: ::
:: :: :: :: :: See you at the Mid-Winters!